The Suit
The Ultimate Darth Vader Armor
Step into the world of Star Wars authenticity with DJ Darth Vader’s suit, an exact replica of the iconic armor from The Empire Strikes Back. This isn’t just any costume; it’s a piece of cinematic history brought to life with unparalleled craftsmanship.
Every detail of DJ Darth Vader’s armor mirrors the original, down to the last stitch and panel. The helmet, cast from the original mold used in The Empire Strikes Back, ensures that the likeness is as precise as it gets. This helmet alone stands as a testament to the dedication and authenticity behind the entire ensemble.
THE HELMET
The dome is gloss black.
There is a thumb-sized indentation in the front center of the dome brow, but there is no sharp point in the dome brow between the eyes of the mask. When viewed from the side, the bottom of the dome should slope downward to the back. This hides the back edge of the face mask neck.
The center ridge ("mohawk") should be prominent from the rest of the dome and not rounded off.
When the wearer looks up such that the lower tubes on the sides of the mask are horizontal, the very back of the dome should almost be touching or flush with the cape.
BALACLAVA
No, not the dessert. A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide the following features: the wearer's mouth which could be seen through the mouth and chin vents, the wearer's neck which could be seen under and around the neck of the mask (especially during movement of the head), and the back of the wearer's neck/head which could be seen from the back at a low angle underneath the dome.
While the balaclava is labeled as "required" merely because it is the simplest way to ensure that none of the features listed above are visible when the wearer is in full costume as well as to keep the wearer's head cool.
ARMOR
The chest armor is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal grey. The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match the colors that were used on the dome and the face mask. The centermost raised section is grey, and all other raised sections are black.
The shoulder bells are entirely black, and each are attached to the chest armor by hinges or are fixed to the armor to simulate hinged bells.
The bells can also be attached to the chest armor by leather (or other fabric) strapping which allows the bells to hang. The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not stick out substantially through the cape, 3) that the side of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells are almost flush.
CHESTBOX
The chest box is square, satin black, and worn right below the chest armor.
The black leather (or leather-like material) one inch (1") wide straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, and attach to the top and sides of the chest box as shown.
The face of the chest box consists of:
Two metal-looking silver rods on each side that are machined as shown, and each are bracketed at the top and bottom.
The brackets at the top are black and each have a “U” shaped cutout on the upper inner half of the bracket.
The brackets at the bottom are bronze in appearance and bear a finned design.
Three vertically stacked metal-looking silver coin slots on the wearer's right. These coin slots blink red.
A blue colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left and each are mounted in a raised black area slightly larger than the panels themselves. These panels are unlit.
Along the bottom are four rocker switches which are mounted in a raised black section at their base and are, from wearer's right to left, three white and one red.
Small metal-looking silver switches are between each rocker and above each colored panel (five total).
Exotic (not aurebesh) text appears below each of the coin slots. The chestbox should be slightly weathered and the straps should look slightly aged.
The black bracket on the wearer’s right should be larger than the one on the wearer’s left.
The bronze bracket on the wearer’s left should not bear the finned design on the outer half.
The outer edge of each bracket should slightly protrude towards the top of the chest box (mirror image each other).
The center of each coin slot should have square corners, and contains a semi-translucent red material.
GLOVES
The gloves are black leather (or leather-like material) and mid-forearm length.
The upper surface has sewn lines spaced approximately one inch (1") apart which run parallel to the arm and start just behind the knuckles towards the fingers.
The palm side has no sewn lines. The sewn lines should be very finely stitched, and the upper surface should be padded minimally, if at all.
The sewn lines in the flared section are stitched as a "V" turning the sixth (outermost) section into a "Y".
The stitching on the gloves, with the exception of the sewn lines on the top of the glove, should be external.
The top and bottom of the glove in the flared section should not be directly sewn together; an intermediate triangular section should adjoin them starting at the wrist bone. It should be approximately two inches (2") in width at the end opening of the glove.
The seams on the fingers should be whip stitched.
BELT BOXES
The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt. Both belt boxes are approximately two inches (2”) from the edge of the buckle on both sides. The belt boxes mirror one another.
Each belt box has, from the edge closest to the buckle:
two opaque green rectangular light panels bordered by a small black slanted bezel. These green light panels are set above a half strip of braid-reinforced transparent hose inset in a rectangular cutout.
A cylindrical opaque red light set in a very small chrome bezel.
Six silver posts with smooth, not knurled, sides in two vertical columns of three.
All lights are constantly lit. Depending on the scene in which they are viewed, the belt boxes can range from being unweathered to slightly weathered to extremely weathered.
The belt box should be "tapered": the back face should be larger than the front face.
Clarification: The chrome bezel is very thin and extends one-eighth to one-fourth the height of the red light, and therefore is barely noticeable when the red light is on, giving the illusion that it is not there.
CODPIECE
The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material).
It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt, and under the inner robe.
It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips.
In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping. The inset is countersunk a bit from the face. In other words, it isn’t flush with the face of the cod.
The piping around the inset starts roughly 1/2 of the way up from the bottom of the inset on the wearer’s left and ends there also.
The piping overlaps itself at that location.
BOOTS
The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a satin shine and are lace-less. A gloss shine is also acceptable.
They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance. Not a pebbled leather appearance.
There is no noticeable zipper in full costume. A zipper in the back of the boot, or completely covered by the shin, is allowable if it cannot be seen in full suitup.
The sole of the front does not exceed one inch (1") in thickness and the heel does not exceed two inches (2") in thickness.
An aggressive, heavy tread or lug sole is not approvable. The sole should be "flat" when viewed from the side.
Note: The strap/buckle at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot. The boots should be made of leather.
The sole should not exceed one and one-half inches (1-1/2") in the heel or three-quarter of an inch (3/4") in the front.
Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.
HELMET FACEMASK
The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
The inset of the nose should be silver.
The face mask is asymmetrical.
The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey (eyes are not visible behind lenses).
The lower mouth vent is triangular with rounded corners, and is slightly smaller than the size of the upper mouth vent.
Large, silver, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional black screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further.
The tusks are metal-looking, silver, and have rounded (hemispherical) tips.
There is not a substantial gap between the neck of the face mask and the top of the chest armor.
The neck of the face mask should hover over the neck of the chest armor.
No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask). The eye sockets (areas bordering the lenses) should be painted black except the bridge of the nose.
On the wearer's right, the grey section of paint directly above the cheek should come to a sharp point on the side of the nose.
The small lower section of each cheek is painted black. To contrast the cheek on the wearer's left, and to match the cheek on the wearer's right.
The wearer's right side of the mask is higher than the left side (asymmetrical).
The neck of the face mask should sit on the top part of the chest armor when the wearer looks slightly downward.
CAPE
The cape is made of black wool (or wool equivalent) and lined with black satin. The cape should be between 200 and 220 degrees when laid out flat. On the wearer, the cape should be open from armor corner, around back, to the other armor corner. Not open like ROTS. Not closed like Rogue One.
The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material) and is one inch (1”) to one and one quarter inches wide. (1-¼”). The cape collar should not be seen when worn correctly.
The cape is held closed with a chain, or fastened/positioned to give the same effect as being held closed with a chain.
The front of the cape collar is pulled under the neck of the mask so that the cape chain is not visible.
INNER ROBE
The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape (wool).
It is ankle length, and worn over the codpiece, but under the chest armor and belt, and the edges of the robe are a few inches away from the chest box. The edges of the robe line up with the black stripe on the chest armor at the top, and the inside edge of the belt boxes (toward the buckle) at the belt.
There are at least three darts/pleats on each side of the inner robe that run perpendicular to the belt. The first dart/pleat is placed one and one quarter inches (1-1/4”) from the inside edge of the robe. Each dart/pleat is three-quarter inches (3/4”) wide and three-quarter inches (3/4”) deep.
The darts/pleats are sewn from the belt to mid-chest box height. Approximately four inches. (4”). The pleats/darts are folded over toward the chest box and pressed down. The folded over dart/pleat should run from the belt to under the chest armor.
The darts/pleats can be sewn down to give the tight pleated look, or they can be left open above the sewn dart line and folded over without sewing them down and allowed to open. The inner robe should be secured firmly by the belt so that the area between the belt and chest armor stays close to the wearer and is pulled taut.
The opening of the inner robe should gradually get larger as it approaches the chest armor. The edges of the robe should not be completely vertical from the belt to the chest armor. The edges of the robe should intersect the chest armor on the black stripes and intersect the belt boxes between the inside edge and
the middle of the belt box.
The inner robe darts/pleats should have the “ESB-look”. This look is, as in the Hoth scene and others, where the darts are held together tightly until mid-chestbox, then open up as the darts go toward the armor.
LEATHER SUIT
The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced about one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs.
A one-, two-, or three-piece suit is acceptable.
An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal.
Additional Note: The body suit in the film was constructed in three pieces: A top with only the sleeves quilted, a vest, and pants. The vest front of the bodysuit should have the look of being made from four quilted parts with the seams in the correct places.
There should be a middle seam, and two other seams that are five quilted lines left and right from the middle seam.
Approximately four inches (4”) below the armor one of the seams deviates and is sewn on the face of the sixth quilted line until it disappears under the armor. This creates the look of the fractional quilted line looking like the letter “V”.
The left and right seams should meet the bottom of the chest armor on the inside edges of the raised black stripes on the chest armor on both sides.
BELT
The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is approximately two and a quarter inches wide.
The lightsaber hook is silver, metal, and held to the backside of the belt by two silver rivets (which are located towards the bottom of the belt). The lightsaber hook is mounted slightly forward of the wearer's left hip.
The buckle is metal or metallic in appearance, and is slightly smaller than the belt boxes in terms of height.
The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular.
The second layer is silver and in the shape of a horizontally elongated "D."
There are five progressively smaller rectangular cutouts. The smallest cutout is a square.
The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D." The belt should look aged, and the buckle should be weathered.
The belt should have two metallic studs/bolts partially visible under the wearer's left of the belt buckle when viewed from the wearer's left side (not a prominent stud/bolt as seen on the ROTJ belt, as the buckle style used to close the belt must have changed from ANH/ESB to ROTJ).
LIGHTSABER
The lightsaber should be a Master Replicas or custom built based on the MPP Microflash or the Heiland Synchronar 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in ESB.
The metal has a chrome appearance.
The grips extend all the way to the middle section.
A lever is not present on the box on the middle section.
The side bars of the box on the middle section are black.
There are connecting wires towards the top of the lightsaber.
The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws. The lightsaber should be slightly weathered.
SHINGUARDS
The shin guards are gloss black.
Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half of the leg when viewed from the side.
The knee is shaped like a cut diamond.
Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three on each side).
On both sides of the raised area along the center, a long "U" shaped cutout starts at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth.
The shin guards are attached by two straps that go around the boot.
The shin guards should be pushed down to the top of the boot when worn correctly. Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific shin guards).
The right shin guard is taller than the left.
On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.
Experience the pinnacle of Star Wars authenticity with DJ Darth Vader's screen-accurate armor.
Crafted with the highest quality materials, the suit’s construction rivals the cost of a car, reflecting its premium status. From the gleaming chest plate to the intricately detailed gloves, every component is designed to provide the closest experience to the original film’s costume.
Wearing this suit is more than donning armor; it’s stepping into the role of one of cinema’s most iconic characters. DJ Darth Vader’s appearance in this screen-accurate attire not only elevates his performance but also brings an element of genuine Star Wars magic to every event. Whether on stage or mingling with guests, the presence of this suit creates an unforgettable, immersive experience that is second to none.
Weddings
DJ Darth Vader transforms weddings into enchanting and extraordinary events that launch the happy couple and their guests into the galaxy far, far away, creating powerful memories.
Weddings
Community Events
Community events are about more than just entertainment; they’re about creating lasting memories. DJ Darth Vader’s immersive and professional approach ensures your event is unforgettable.
Community Events
Private Parties
Creating unforgettable memories is at the heart of every private party. DJ Darth Vader’s professional and immersive approach guarantees your celebration is nothing short of legendary.
Private Parties
Sporting Events
The combination of cutting-edge sound and lighting systems creates a fully immersive environment. As the music pulses through the stadium, DJ Darth Vader turns every moment into a highlight, making your sporting event a legendary experience.
Sports Events
Get a personalized video message from DJ Darth Vader on Cameo
Whether it’s a birthday greeting, motivational message, or a special announcement, make it unforgettable with a personalized video from the Dark Side. Each video is focused on your specs, ensuring a unique and memorable experience. Share the magic of Darth Vader with friends, family, or colleagues!
Unique
From thematic elements to personalized playlists, every aspect of DJ Darth Vader’s performance is tailored to highlight the individuality of your occasion. In a universe of endless possibilities, DJ Darth Vader stands out by offering a unique and memorable experience that leaves a lasting impression on every guest.
Custom
Whether it’s an elegant wedding or a high-energy club night, DJ Darth Vader adapts his setlist and style to fit the occasion perfectly. No two events are the same under his command. Let the power of custom music transport your guests to another realm. With DJ Darth Vader, you’re not just hosting an event; you’re creating an experience.
Expertise
Experience is the difference between good and great. DJ Darth Vader’s deep understanding of music trends and genres means he can craft a setlist that resonates with every guest. With experience comes reliability. DJ Darth Vader’s seasoned approach guarantees a smooth and professional experience from start to finish.
Immersion
DJ Darth Vader’s immersive setups are designed to captivate. From the first track to the final encore, guests are enveloped in an audio-visual journey that transports them to another dimension. Immersive experiences leave lasting impressions. DJ Darth Vader’s expertise ensures your event is not just heard, but felt, creating memories that linger long after the music stops.
Professional
Expect nothing less than perfection as DJ Darth Vader commands the decks. His technical skills and stage presence create an electrifying atmosphere that keeps the crowd engaged. Professionalism extends beyond the performance. DJ Darth Vader maintains clear communication and collaboration, ensuring your event vision is executed flawlessly.
Unforgettable
Whether it’s a heartwarming wedding or an exhilarating party, DJ Darth Vader knows how to create those magical moments that guests will talk about for years. An unforgettable event is one where every detail is perfect. DJ Darth Vader’s commitment to excellence ensures that your special occasion is nothing short of spectacular.